Select “Fuel” or “Spark” at the top to bring up the table you want to adjust. Fuel table is default when you arrive at this page.
Here you can adjust the fuel map and ignition map by percentage (e.g. +5 means 5% over the inbuilt map), in the same sort of style as a piggyback controller.
Adjust values by tapping and dragging to select either a single cell or multiple cells. Then use the “+” and “-” buttons at the bottom to adjust the selected cells.
Once you’re happy with your changes you can click “Write” (which I think sets them live but doesn’t write them, so if you turned it off and back on they’d be gone) or “Flash” which applies and stores the values so they’ll still be there once the ignition it turned off and back on.
You can make adjustments with the engine running, which is quite handy. When you write/flash the changes the engine will falter for a moment and if idling, may stall. If you give a little blip of throttle as you apply the settings, that stalling can mostly be avoided.
If you click “start diag” at the bottom you should see which cell is currently active on the bike along with RPM, TPS (throttle %), AFR (if wideband present)
Fuel map:
If you are trying to build a map using a dyno/roller or StayTuned then, then this is likely where the most activity will be. There’s more cells than the Basic tuning page so you can build a more precise map. StayTuned only uses this page.
Currently the ECUs come with a “baked in” fuel/spark map for the R15 (150cc) model which is popular in Asia. So for a UK/EU spec 125cc model the stock fuel map will probably be a bit rich, so we’d mostly expect to be ending up with slightly negative numbers on this page.
Ignition/spark table:
The ignition page also has a “baked in” ignition map which can be adjusted in the same way, but as far as I can tell (so far) the ignition maps aren’t that different from the R125 so can mostly be left alone. There is potentially some power to be picked up on the ignition table but you can also do quite a lot of damage quite easily so this is probably best left to professionals, or at least learn about the subject beforehand (e.g. and have a way to detect knock) and proceed VERY carefully.
Do NOT go just changing values in the ignition table willy nilly. You will likely destroy your engine!
